Art and Architecture in Rome
June 10th, 2007 by Zofia
Heading out of the region of Tuscany we are now entering Lazio, and the first stop is Roma “la Città Eterna” (the Eternal City). There is so much to do and see in Rome that I won’t be able to cover it all in one blog posting so I will just talk about some of the places I plan to visit when I go there, and leave the rest of Rome up to you.
Rome is a city rich with history, there is something to appeal to everyone’s taste from the ancient to the modern, Rome has it all. The question really has to be ‘Where do I begin?’ Well may I recommend starting with the ancient – the ruins of the Roman Forum.
The forum was the central area around which ancient Rome developed. It was the site where commerce and administration of Justice took place. The highlights of the Forum include the remains of the Temples of Castor and Pollux, Saturn, Vesta, and Caesar; the Basilicas Aemilia, Julia, and Maxentius and Constantine; and the Arches of Septimius Severus, Titus, Tiberius and Augustus. Also, the Curia Julia (the site of the Roman Senate), the Atrium Vestae (the house of the Vestal Virgins), and the Via Sacra (the processional street which linked the Atruim Vestae with the Colosseum.
The following website brings the ruins of the forum back to life in 3 dimensions as it might have been on 21 June 400AD: http://dlib.etc.ucla.edu/projects/Forum
After the Roman Forum, the Colosseum should be next on the list. Originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre, the Colosseum is a giant amphitheatre in the centre of Rome. It was the largest ever amphitheatre built during the Roman Empire begun by the Emperor Vespasian between 70 and 72 AD and completed in 80AD by Titus. It was originally capable of seating 45,000-50,000 spectators (to compare, the Wellington Westpac Stadium, which is similar in shape to the Colosseum, is capable of seating only 34,500 spectators) and was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Classical mythology. The Colosseum was in use for nearly 500 years, it ceased being used for entertainment in the early medieval era and was used as housing, workshops, quarters for a religious order, a fortress, a quarry and a Christian shrine. Today the Colosseum is in ruins after suffering damage from earthquakes and stone robbers, but it is still a shining example of Imperial Rome and Roman architecture. It is well worth a visit!
Once you have covered the ancient sites, I recommend heading to San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane (affectionately known as San Carlino). This is a beautiful church built between 1638 and 1641 and was designed by Francesco Borromini. It is an iconic example of Baroque architecture, just a stones throw away from the Palazzo Barberini (whose windows were designed by Borromini as well), this small corner church stands grandly with it’s beautiful concave convex facade. The church was commissioned by the Spanish Trinitarian Order, an order dedicated to freeing the Christian slaves. On the sides of the church are statues of St. John of Matha and St Felix of Valois, the founders of the Trinitarian Order. “Quattro Fontane” refers to the four corner fountains at intersection where the church stands – two river gods (the Arno River and the Tiber) and two goddesses (Juno and Diana). The floor plan of the interior of the church is based on a large number of intersecting ovals. This would have to be one of my favourite churches and is high on my list of places that must be visited in Rome.
Rome is also home to a large number of works by my favourite sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Under the patronage of Cardinal Borghese, Bernini rapidly rose to prominence as a sculptor during the 17th century. Here are a few of the best examples to take a closer look at:
Apollo and Daphne (1622-25), marble, height 243cm, Galleria Borghese, Rome
David (1623-24), marble, height 170m, Galleria Borghese, Rome
Ecstasy of St Theresa (1647-52), marble, Capella Cornaro, Santa Maria della Vittoria, Rome
Blessed Ludovica Albertoni (1671-74), marble, Cappella Altieri-Albertoni, San Francesco a Ripa, Rome
What I love about Bernini’s work, is the fluidity of line, the way the sculptures seem to move, the ripples seem to flow so easily and it hardly seems like cold marble at all but instead it seems like something soft, something real. The other aspect of his style that fascinates me so much is his use of expression. The faces of each of his subjects expresses real emotion. Both Apollo and Daphne, and David depict movement in a way not previously attempted in stone, with David Bernini is showing us the moment David becomes a hero, rather than the traditional depiction (think of Michelangelo’s famous statue of the same character) where David is depicted after the fact, as the heroic person. Bernini’s David shows the struggle in his face, the hard work behind attaining his title of hero, apparently Bernini studied his own face in the mirror to get the expression just right. St Theresa also shows great emotion on her face. As the angel pierces her with the fire of God in her heart you see the fire alight in her face, the ecstasy of the experience of the divine. The Blessed Ludovica Albertoni was one of the last sculptures Bernini created before his death (he was 71 at the time). The work shows Ludovica in the final moments of life experiencing mortal suffering and religious ecstasy.
Leading on from this we have to visit the Holy City – The Vatican City. But that is a trip for another day…
Ciao